North Berwick Golf Coast -- a golfing paradise on Edinburgh's doorstep

In North Berwick --

All along the High Street you will find an amazing selection of tea and coffee shops, all serving light meals. Too many to list here but all of them good. Take your pick. For larger meals and more complete restaurants, you can try--

Nether Abbey Hotel Brasserie - 20 Dirleton Avenue, a short walk from town centre. Their all-new restaurant inside the hotel is tastefully designed, but you can also eat outside when the weather is nice. Open for lunch and dinner every day. Best to book ahead. Tel/ 01620 892802.

The Grange - 35 High Street, featuring Scottish/French cuisine.

Osteria - very good Italian cuisine, on the main street (High St) next door to Woolworth's. Book ahead.

Poonthais Thai Cuisine - 7 Westgate (west end of the high st.) Very popular and with nice garden dining in rear.

Lucky House - 125 High Street, for Cantonese cooking

The Scottish Seabird Centre - at the harbour, an unusual but enjoyable eating place. Bright and cheerful surroundings, with luscious views out over the Firth of Forth. They have good jacket potatoes and a very nice menu, with wine and beer available. You should definitely visit the renowned Seabird Centre anyway, and while you're there you might as well have a nice dining experience. You don't have to pay to enter the building and go into the bistro, by the way. Nor will you be able to resist browsing in their excellent gift shop on the way to and from the dining room.

The High Street (main street in town) is dotted with pleasant little cafes, tea shops and coffee houses, all serving light food and casual meals. When you are strolling through the town centre, refreshment and drink are never more than a minute away. Too many to mention here, you'll very quickly find your own favourite.

Out of town but only 5 minutes away in nearby Gullane -- We especially like these restaurants in Gullane, which is just a few miles west of North Berwick. The town is very small, so you will easily locate any of these.

Golf Inn on Main Street in Gullane. Long a favorite of ours. Food is very good, prices are moderate, and the ambience comfortable and attractive. All adds up to a most pleasant dining experience. Best to call ahead to book a table. Tel/ 01620 843259.

The Old Clubhouse, on East Links Road across from the children's golf course in Gullane. Historic place serving pub food. Go early, as it gets crowded.

La Potiniere, on Main Street, is a very upscale gourmet dining experience. Very small, intimate dining room where you have your table for the entire evening. Expensive, but definitely worth it if you want a relaxing, epicurean treat. Booking way ahead at this excellent restaurant is a must.Tel/ 1620 843214.

Open Arms Hotel, in Dirleton, the village between North Berwick and Gullane. Fine food in a charming setting across from the castle. Deveau's Brasserie offers informal dining, and the Library is an award-winning restaurant. We recommend them both.

Out of town eateries, yet still only 10-14 minutes from North Berwick --

Old Aberlady Inn, on the main street (the A198) running through the quaint town of Aberlady, less than 10 minutes from North Berwick just west of Gullane. This landmark inn is worth the drive if just for its looks alone. But you'll soon discover there's more to enjoy than how it looks. The former owners have returned and offer fine food and drink in a delightful ambience. Eat outside in the garden in nice weather. Or if you like the garden setting but not the direct sun, choose in the glassed-in dining room overlooking the garden. A charming old inn, and the prices are right, too. One visit to their excellent website will convince you that The Old Aberlady Inn should be high on your list of where to eat. www.theoldaberladyinn.co.uk

Craigielaw Golf Course Clubhouse, open to the public every day,and for dinner on Saturdays, Incredible views, moderate prices. Very appealing contemporary decor and, as I say, the view is unbeatable. (See my write-up on the Craigielaw page.)

Whitekirk Golf Course Clubhouse, on the road to Dunbar. Attractive dining rooms. Well-priced food.

In Dunbar, about 20 minutes from North Berwick, heading east -

The Rocks - an upscale restaurant and bar, with excellent chef and pastry chef. Food is delicious. Very popular and people come quite some distances to eat here, so the restaurant has a courtesy bus service to pick you up and bring you home if you wish. Advance booking is essential. Tel/ 01368 862287. I'm recommending it because it is excellent, But there is one caveat here--the noise level is very high, so if you are looking for conversation or a quiet dining experience, this might not be the place. The Rocks is in Dunbar, on Marine Road at the seafront. Easy to find.

In Prestopans, about 20 minutes from North Berwick, heading west --

The Prestoungrange Gothenburg is dedicated to good food, art and music festivals, and the revival of the traditions of real ales, salt and soap-making which at one time put the town of Prestonpans on the map. Several venues here, with the James Park Bistro being open all day every day. Visit their website to learn more about this historical building and what they feature. www.prestoungrange.org An unusual place with an impressive mission--the regeneration of their community through the arts. Archie and Sheila Baird (see Heritage of Golf Museum just below) recommended the Prestoungrange Gothenburg to us, and now we are recommending it to you. From North Berwick take the A198 west and then the B1438 to Prestonpans. The building is at 227 High Street. Phone 01875 819922 to book a table.

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Cone 9 Ceramics - An exciting new gallery presenting a wealth of original work by local, national and international potters, artisits and craftworkers--a visual feast for the discerning shopper who wants something authentically one-of-a kind. The inviiting little gallery features beautifully crafted ceramics, irresistible wall-hangings, fabulous jewelry, chic cloth handbags hand-made by a local designer (and at surprisingly accessible prices), and much more. Cone 9 Ceramics--daring to be different--is owned by Ruth Colston, originally from Orkney and passionate about being "Progressive--Selective--Unique." At 60 High Street. Allow yourself plenty of browsing time.

Stop 'N Shop at #93. An amazing shop that has everything, from hot water bottles to fishing rods to kites to...well, you name it. If you don't see what you want, ask, because they probably have it. Run by a very helpful couple, Farida and Abdul, who will order an item for you if they don't stock it. But we have never been disappointed here. Our thought is that if they don't have it, we don't need it!

Woolworth's --yes, the old familiar is still in Scotland.

The Fisherman's Kitchen - fresh fish market, etc. But it's more than a fine fish market. Check out their wines, for instance. Many unique items in this attractive shop.

Presence - specialists in Scottish gifts

Thistles - gifts and wonderful kitchenware.

Boots - the ubiquitous British pharmacy chain

Ferguson's Pharmacy - a must-browse place. Upscale cosmetics and unusual items

Howdah Coffee & Tea Emporium - shop carrying all that its name implies. Amazing selection of coffees and teas from around the world. You'll need time to browse. Owner really knows his teas and coffees!

Several charity shops (Oxfam, Heart, Red Cross, Cancer, etc.) where I buy used books at great prices. And keep an eye out for antiques in these shops. I've spotted many bargains.

Art galleries. North Berwick is renowned as an art centre.

www.north-berwick.co.uk
Once you stroll along the high street and side streets, you will discover your own favourite places. You really have to take your time and investigate every nook and cranny. We've been in North Berwick a total of many months over the last seven years, and still discover new delights. That's why I recommend you visit this website. You'll find all kinds of helpful and fascinating information about the town and the area. A website you will use again and again, as I do, as a reference source.

North Berwick Highland Games -- The highpoint of the year for this charming town. North Berwick hosts the 5th largest highland games in all of Scotland, and is definitely an event you will long remember. Pipe (bagpipe) bands from all over the world, all dressed in their tartans. Games, including tossing the caber (akin to a telephone pole), Scottish dancing competitions for all ages, foot races, solo bagpipe competitions, tossing the North Berwick stone (a huge rock) and so much more. Walking stick carvers, selling their beautiful sticks--something anyone who goes walking in the countryside should have. (Richard and I each bought one here, and we use them a lot.) Everything Scottish. Rides, food and drink. Something for everyone. Then in the evening, the grande finale--the pipe bands march down the hill and through the town. What a great day--an opportunity to see an authentic "highland games." Usually held the first or second Saturday in August. See the Tourist Info Centre for more details, or call John Starr at (0)1620 890 333. Visit their colourful website to get a flavour of this memorable yearly event. www.northberwickhighlandgames.co.uk

Other North Berwick attractions --

Scottish Seabird Centre -- Awarded the 5 Star rating, and with good reason! Not a fou-fou place for tourists or a hyped-up amusement arcade for kids, this is a most wonderful facility for experiencing and learning about puffins and gannets and other birds of the area. The Centre is at the North Berwick harbour and is a serious scientific centre opened in May 2000 by Prince Charles, an avid environmentalist himself. An auditorium features excellent lecturers all summer long, and the Scottish Seabird Centre has already earned a very high reputation internationally as a renowned centre for the study of seabirds. A viewing deck, with telescopes and interactive cameras, allows you to view the nesting of the birds on the islands just off shore without disturbing them. See puffins and gannets up close. Fine exhibits, a good cafe and bistro (I already mentioned this above), and a gift shop you'll appreciate. The whole thing is very well done. A first-rate experience--one I highly recommend. You can check it out on www.seabird.org.

Walk the beach

Visit the lifeboat (RNLI) station

Climb The Law -- a huge rock which can be seen from many miles distance, even from across the Firth of Forth in the Kingdom of Fife. A major landmark, it is 612 fee high with a not-too-difficult path to the top. If you make it up there, you'll discover the ruins of an old building up top. I've climbed the Law, and recommend it if you like a good walk. Mostly you climb from the back (south) side, which is not nearly as steep as the north side. Follow signs for the carpark, and set out from there.

Boat trips to Fidra -- to see the puffins

Boat trips to Bass Rock -- to see the gannets.

Internet Service -- Lothian Computer Systems & Internet Cafe, 6 Church Road in the centre of North Berwick. Owned and operated by a very knowledgable and helpful couple, John and Lucia Starr, (and assisted by their daughter, Luisa).

Cleek, niblick, mashie, spoon, baffy? No, they're not types of fast food, they are part of the history of golf. One visit to Archie Baird's The Heritage of Golf Museum will clear it all up.

Tucked next to the Gullane Golf Club pro shop in the centre of Gullane this is one of golfdom's great treasures. Small in size but large in importance, this unrivalled collection is the result of one man's passion for the tradition and history of golf. Rare early golf clubs, balls and all sorts of historical golf mechanisms and memorabilia fill the room--calling out to be noticed. And noticed they will be, for the founder and curator of the museum is here to explain them all. For example, Archie will show you why the very best early golf ballmakers could only "manufacture" two per day and how the gutta percha ball not only revolutionized the golf ball but how it forced changes in golf clubs.

Archie Baird is a wellspring of information and colourful stories about the history of golf. The more interested you are in golf history, the more fascinating and the more generous with his time he becomes. Throughout his life, Archie has collected golfing artefacts, many of them one-of-a-kind. Former RAF pilot in WWII, veterinary surgeon, and Captain of Gullane Golf Club, Archie is a member of the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers. His wife, Dr. Sheila Park Baird, is the great-granddaughter of Willie Park, Sr., first winner of the Open Campionship.

The Heritage of Golf Museum is for the seriously interested. At present, the only way to visit the collection is by phoning Archie, who is always happy to give a complementary "tour" to those genuinely seeking to explore the rich treasures of golf history. Archie Baird is an expert--engaging and articulate--with a twinkle in his eye as he enthusiastically explains his collection. You can reach him by phoning 01875 870 277. A visit to his museum is a privilege you are bound to appreciate and enjoy.

Preston Mill on the river Tyne in East Linton. After you visit the mill, which is still turning after over 400 years, take the footpath behind it for about 100 yards to the massive 16th Century stone Phantassie Doocot (dovecote).

Hailes Castle, just outside of East Linton, is a special place and will delight any history enthusiast. These are the ruins of the castle where Mary Queen of Scots and her eventual third husband, the Earl of Bothwell, stayed when fleeing after the murder of her second husband (Lord Darnley) in 1567. Bothwell was allegedly a key figure in the murder of Darnley, and some speculate that he abducted Mary and brought her to this castle. After reading several biographies of Mary Stewart, I tend to think she went willingly. At any rate, they married a few days later, although they lived together for only a brief period. (Reading about the history of an area really enhances your visit, and Mary Queen of Scots is an especially fascinating subject.) I do recommend this idyllic spot along the banks of a small river. And the drive into it on the tiny narrow road (usually empty) is especially lovely. Locate it on your Ordnance Survey.

Tantallon Castle -- built in 1375, it was virtually impregnable for many years. You'll realize why when you see the spectacular location! Just east of North Berwick. A must-see.

Museum of Flight -- at East Fortune Airfield near Haddington. Historic aircraft of WWII in huge hangars. If you are at all interested in aviation, place this on your list of things to do. One of the Concorde SSTs is the latest aircraft to joint the exhibit. A cafe' on the premises as well. You'll find the museum well signposted throughout the area and it's also on your Ordnance Survey.

Dirleton -- A picturebook village -- Considered by many to be the most attractive village in Scotland, and I have to agree. What a gem! Built around a lovely village green, this is such an unspoiled little piece of heaven that you will want to spend time ambling about and taking in the beauty. Walk down the little lanes, admire the gardens, investigate the church and visit the fine Dirleton Gallery, etc., and of course the superb castle right in the heart of the village. (See below.) I urge you to make Dirleton part of your itinerary.

Dirleton Gallery -- Every visit to this jewel of a village should include this highly esteemed gallery with customers world-wide. Paintings, prints, porcelain, ceramics, designer knitwear...all top quality. Tucked away only a few steps from the village green, the gallery also offers a wonderful tea/coffee room with the most mouth-watering cakes you can imagine! A delight to the eye as well as the palate. Whenever I sit sipping tea in this serene setting, I find myself forgetting the problems of the world and believing that this is how life really is. Please view their website to learn more. www.dirleton/gallery.co.uk

Athelstaneford -- another very special, favorite place of mine. If you have any interest at all...ANY...in the history of Scotland, visit this enchanting place. Go to this tiny village--Athelstaneford--and visit the Saltire Flag Heritage Centre, near the site of a very significant battle in 832 A.D. The Picts and the Scots (40 of them) were defending their land against the Northumbrians (800 of them!) led by a chieftain name Athelstan. It was here that the present flag of Scotland, the oldest flag in Europe and the UK, was seen in the sky before the battle. Thus was born the Saltire, the flag which you see flying today. The full story is told in the Flag Heritage Centre. Please be sure to go into the tiny Centre (a former dovecote) at the rear of the church because you will be very moved by its magical presentation. This gets my highest rating. So simple but so creatively done. Only takes 4 minutes and...it's free, although they do have a little box for donations which are always welcome. Open daily. You and whoever is with you will probably be the only ones there. You enter the little dovecot, close the door, and the presentation begins automatically. By now you might have guessed how much I love this magical wee place. Everyone I've taken here has felt the same way. A little treasure usually overlooked by tourists, be sure to take the time to visit it. An easy short drive from North Berwick, you'll find it on your Ordnance Survey. The beautiful B&B "Fidra House" is directly across the street, by the way.

After you've visited Athelstaneford, you can take a quick hop down the road (west) to the Hopetoun Monument. You can't miss it up there on the hill to your left. Go up if you want to treat yourself to spectacular views.

Glenkinchie Distillery Visitor Center - on the way to Edinburgh, in Pencaitland, Tranent. You can visit a working distillery at Glenkinchie, home of "Edinburgh Malt." Telephone: 01875 342004. Pick up a leaflet in the North Berwick Tourist Information Centre.

Dunbar -- a little town dating back to pre-Roman times. Take your time and see all the details. Dunbar centre is small, so there's no fear of getting lost of running out of steam. Gives a feeling of how time has passed a town by. Read the details under our Dunbar Golf Club review.

Yellowcraig Nature Trail -- on the shoreline in Dirleton.

EDINBURGH -- pronounced "Edin-burra" .... www.edinburgh.org
You cannot come to the North Berwick Golf Coast without visiting this great city. It's easy to see why it's the favourite of so many people, including us. A simple way to get there is by train from North Berwick. A short 35 minute ride takes you smack into the centre of the main shopping district, Princes Street. Here are some of our favorite places in Edinburgh.

Edinburgh Castle -- see the Crown jewels of Scotland and the Stone of Destiny, used for the coronation of the Scottish kings. The castle, which dominates the city from its high hill (an extinct volcano), is something you will definitely want to experience. The view from the castle grounds, so high above the city, is fabulous. Edinburgh Castle website has a new entry about the new exhibition in the dungeons, and refers to the fact that in 1781 American prisoners were held here during the War of Independence (American Revolution). The website shows a photo of one of the earliest representations of the Stars and Stripes, which was carved on a door of the dungeons. www.historic-scotland.gov.uk Once the site opens, click on "Properties" and then "Edinburgh Castle" and finally "visitors to be taken back to 1781." Edinburgh Castle should be at the top of your "must see" list and deserves a full day.

Royal Yacht Britannia -- It's called a yacht but by anyone's standards it's an ocean liner. I loved every moment of our visit. But then I admit I'm an inveterate ship "freak." Best to pre-book during August. Call (0)131555 556. There's an excellent self-guided tour, filled with history and fascinating tidbits of the royal family, etc.. Another of my favourites in this area.

Palace of Holyrood House -- official residence in Scotland of Her Majesty the Queen, and also was the home of Mary Queen of Scots, whose story is interwoven throughout this part of Scotland. The baroque palace sits at the end of the Royal Mile and is closely associated with Scotland's story past. But it is probably best known as the former residence of Mary Queen of Scots and as the scene of the brutal murder of her secretary Rizzio by her jealous second husband Lord Darnley. (Her first was the king of France.) The bloodstain can still be seen.

Princes Street -- the main shopping street and where you arrive from the train. Pop into Jenners, the world's oldest independent department store. I am not a "shopper" as you know by now, but Jenners is so exceptional that I always stop in when we're in Edinburgh. They have things you cannot find anywhere else. Very "old-fashioned" with extremely courteous service. You will enjoy just browsing through, even if you don't buy anything. (Although it's hard to resist.) And their cosmetic department alone is worth the trip! This is one of the few shopping experiences I will ever recommend.

National Gallery of Scotland -- at the Mound in city centre. Excellent collection of paintings, classical to Impressionists.

Scottish National Portrait Gallery -- 1 Queen Street. Very renowned, very well done.

Royal Botanic Gardens --Inverleith Row. For a lovely, relaxing day. It's free, and one of the best in the world.

Fishing, Anyone? (Or just relaxing in a change of scene)
Before they play in The Open Championship, Tiger Woods and many other golfers spend a few relaxing days fishing. Scotland is a fisherman's paradise, as many have discovered. So if you have a yen to cast a line into one of the wild streams here, we recommend the Elibank Estate. Located south of the North Berwick Golf Coast in an area called The Borders, Elibank is less than an hour's drive from North Berwick (40 minutes from Edinburgh). A hidden 220 acres of woodland walks, glorious gardens, and a mile and a half of private fishing on the famous River Tweed. Stay in one of the attractive B&B rooms or spend a week in their comfortable 4 star self-catering cottage. You won't be disappointed.
Elibank Estate
Near Walkerburn
Peebleshire EH43 6DA, Scotland
Tel/fax: (0)1896 870218
E-mail: sarahrussell@elibank.fsbusiness.co.uk

Places to Eat