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St. Andrews area
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St Andrews Castle Course
St Andrews Eden Course St Andrews Strathtyrum & Balgove Courses
St. Michaels
Other golf courses
Machrihanish, Pitlochry..
Links Lite..
Great links golf
for the
not-so-great golfer
East Neuk of Fife
Watercolor of Crail Harbour by Hugh Livingstone
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| The St. Andrews area is not complete without
a visit to the East Neuk, with
its charming
villages and harbours. These
are art villages,
with many fine galleries.The
best website
we've found is the "East
Neuk Wide."
(Click on photo.) |
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Where To Stay in St. Andrews
© 2006, Richard & Mary-Alice Jafolla
We recommend these fine 3 and 4 star Guesthouses
and B & Bs --
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(Note* You don't dial the first "0" if
calling from outside the UK)
If you stay in town, you'll find a large
concentration of lodging on a short street
called Murray Park and in the area surrounding
it. Very convenient to the St. Andrews Links
golf courses and town centre, which is an
easy 5 minute walk. The entire street (Murray
Park) is lined with Guesthouses and B&Bs,
and runs only one long block between The
Scores (road along the seafront) and North
Street, one of the main streets of town.
Most of the following locations are in the
centre of St. Andrews and you can walk to
everything. Parking for most of these B&Bs
is on the street.
Lorimer House
19 Murray Park
tel/01334 476599
Run by a gracious couple, Chris and Michael,
who provide 1st class service in their
carefully
restored Victorian house. They also
have
a ground floor bedroom for anyone not
wanting
stairs.
e-mail: info@lorimerhouse.com
www.lorimerhouse.com
Craigmore Guest House
3 Murray Park
tel/ 01334 472142 ... fax/ 01334 477963
www.standrewscraigmore.com
Glenderran Guest House
9 Murray Park
tel/01334 477951 ... fax/01334 477906
e-mail - glenderran@telinco.com
Cameron House
11 Murray Park
tel/01334 472306 ... fax/01334 479529
Doune House
5 Murray Place (tiny street just off Murray
Park)
tel/fax 01334 475195
Aslar Guest House
120 North Street ( just 30 seconds away from
Murray Park)
tel/01334 473460 ... fax/01334 477540
www.aslar.com
Beveridge House
25 North Street -- Just 2 guest rooms, so
it's homey and non-touristy. Very well-maintained,
with good-sized bedrooms and large modern
bathrooms. Ideal location for walking everywhere.
Directly across the street from the quaint
little St. Andrews Preservation and Trust Museum
and Garden (see below). Annabel Gavine and her husband
Reg have created a comfortable "home
away from home" for their guests. Tel/01334
477453
E-mail - ann@beveridgehouse.co.uk
www.beveridgehouse.co.uk
Old Fishergate House - This beautiful 4-star, well-located B&B
offers 2 twin-bedded rooms, each with its
own sitting room and bathroom--more space
than most accommodations. On a quiet street
in the historic district, Old Fishergate House on North Castle Street is a short walk from
almost everything, and consistently receives
strong recommendations from their guests.
Mrs. Mitchell Tel/ (0)1334 470874
www.oldfishergatehouse.co.uk
Queen's Terrace - well recommended, very popular...so book
early.
18 Queen's Terrace (quiet location, one block
from town centre)
tel/01334 47884
E-mail: jill_hardie@hotmail.com
West Acres Guest House - Large rooms and baths with deluxe appointments.
The large beds are so comfortable they are
worth mentioning! This 4-star B&B is
a 15 minute walk from town centre, so you
might prefer to have a car. Private parking
on their grounds. www.westacres-standrews.com
Liz and Neil Ogston, owners, ...
2 West Acres, St. Andrews
Tel/ (0)1334 476720 .....or email/
info@westacres-standrews.com
The White Lodge - It doesn't get any better then this.
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Sheila and Paul Briggs received prestigious
awards for their previous 5-star B&B.
Now, after a year of designing and creating,
they have opened their exquisite White Lodge,
featuring two suites and one double room.
Looking for the very best? Please see Platinum Page for photos and details. By no means the
typical B&B, The White Lodge is for the discerning guest
who appreciates the exceptional. Highest recommendations. |
Traveling with a group? Here's the ULTIMATE...a Platinum Page feature
If you want to treat yourself to something
super deluxe, this is it! The 5-star
St. Andrews Golfing Lodge is the finest lodging in the St. Andrews area
for groups of up to 12. Please see details on Platinum Pageand visit their own appealing website www.st-andrews-golf-lodge.com
And for something completely different...The
Barns At Kingsbarns
Near Kingsbarns Golf Club and the two
Crail
Golfing Society courses yet only a
few minutes
from St. Andrews--The Barns At Kingsbarns. The 4 large B&B rooms have every amenity
you could hope for--fantastic bathrooms,
broadband internet access, widescreen TVs,
fridges, huge beds, and more. The transformation
of this old highway inn into a world-class
(and I do mean that) establishment is remarkable.
Their restaurant is also excellent (see below
under Where To Eat.) A few minutes south of St. Andrews, on
the A917 as you round the curve through
the
village of Kingsbarns. www.barnsatkingsbarns.com. Private parking on gournds.
Tel/(0)1334 460820
Email/ ian@barnsatkingsbarns.com
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What To Do All Day in St. Andrews
© 2005, Richard & Mary-Alice Jafolla
St. Andrews is a wonderful walking town,
so much of it is accessible on foot.
I could
write pages and pages about it, but
I'll
try to keep it brief.
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| On sunny days used books (some great finds
here) and plants are sold in the Market Square,
middle of Market Street |
Tourist Information Centre -- 70 Market Street, which is one of the three
main shopping streets along with North
and
South Sts. Excellent place for orienting
yourself to the area. I always make
this
my first stop. Loads of free material
as
well as nice stuff to buy, most of
it made
in Scotland. Pick up a free local map.
Tel/01334
472021.
St. Andrews Castle -- With its waveswept backdrop this was the
scene of some of the bloodiest battles
of
the Reformation. See the Bottle Dungeon,
hollowed out of rock, from which the
only
escape was death. History really comes
alive
here.
St. Andrews Cathedral -- Tour this yourself or go with an organized
tour. Climb St. Rule's Tower for a sumptuous
view of the town and area. At one time this
was Scotland's largest cathedral.
Take a tour of the University-- You no longer can catch a glimpse of Prince
William here as he has graduated. But St.
Andrews University was a renowned and beautiful
academic centre long before William's arrival.
Scotland's oldest university, it was an ancient
seat of learning and is set amongst elegant
ivy-clad buildings and delightful quadrangles
and gardens. You are welcome to walk the
grounds here at any time and you can also
take a student-guided tour during the summer.
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| Enjoying strolling in the lovely grounds
of St. Andrews University. |
Walkies -- An excellent little booklet available in
the Tourist Information Centre is "St.Andrews and East Fife VIllages on
Foot." I love this little guide. So many beautiful
places to walk here. Our favorite evening
stroll is down Murray Park (street
with all
those B & Bs) to the seafront.
If you
turn left, you walk along The Scores
(street
along the seafront) and come to the
Old Course.
Since in the summer it stays light
until
very late, there are always golfers
coming
back down the 17th and 18th holes.
The long
shadows make the course look magical.
On
the other hand, If you turn right at
The
Scores, you come to the University
and then
the Castle and the harbour.
Shopping -- Market and South Streets are the main shopping
streets. It's fun just to stroll up and down
both. Here are a few things I've singled
out, but you will discover many more as you
browse.
Market Street --
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#149 is Highland House Kiltmaker. Also on
Market Street is Woolworth's, Tesco (supermarket),
Boots (pharmacy), and an excellent health food store owned by a most helpful and knowledgeable
couple, Susanne and Hugh Livingstone.
(Hugh
is also a fine local artist.)
The Tourist Information Centre (see above) is on Market Street, and is
a good place to begin your day.
Market Street is lined with a panoply of
shops and eateries--something for everyone.
The street is very short so start anywhere
and walk up and down both sides.
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South Street -- is the other rewarding shopping street.
Again, quite short, so browse along both
sides of the street. And when you're on the
south side, be sure to step back in time
and visit #131. J & T Rodger "The Meal Shop" was founded in 1774, so you know it's going
to be fascinating! Too varied to be described,
it has many items you will never find anywhere
else. All sorts of goodies to eat and hard-to-find
foods, as well as pet products and everything
in between. Bet you can't go in without finding
something you must have! A good example of why people like
to come to Scotland.
#201 South Street is another example of the
traditional "High Street shop."
This delectable little produce shop features
local items. (The Scottish strawberries are
YUM.)
St. Andrews Preservation Trust Museum &
Garden, at 12 North Street, is a charming 16th Century
house with interesting displays regarding
the town's history. There's a lovely
little
garden where you can sit and relax
in this
hidden beauty spot.
| Guided Walks -- Tourist Information Centre has further
details. |
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St. Andrews is very picturesque and fascinating,
so these walks are enjoyable as well as informative.
Led by qualified guides who cover such highlights
as the Old Course, Cathedral, Castle, University,
etc., the walks last 1-1/2 hours.
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.
Old Course Guided Tour -- Ideal for the non-golfer who wants to beome
more familiar with the legendary St.
Andrews
Old Course. The interesting little
tour covers
the first hole (not all 18) and other
aspects
you will enjoy knowing about. Saturdays & Sundays in
June, and daily in July & August.
Tours
go every hour from 11-4, and start
at the
golf shop behind the 18th hole of the
Old
Course. Small admission fee. The Tourist
Info Centre has a little brochure on
it.
Byre Theatre -- check with the Tourist Info Centre for
schedule. This is a fine theatre, right
in
town, presenting plays year round.
We've
seen several well-done productions
here.
Craigtoun County Park -- lovely to look at and fun to visit, with
boating, a little train, and lots of
other
outdoor activities. On the outskirts
of town,
take a bus to it or drive (see your
town
map).
St. Andrews Botanical Gardens, at the Cannongate. This also you can drive
to or take a bus, although many people
walk
to it. It's clearly signposted and
anyone
can direct you. Indicated on your town
map.
Internationally acclaimed 18 acres
of eye-filling
plants.
West Sands -- the beach running next to the St. Andrews
golf courses is not only fun to walk
on,
horses are often exercised here as
well.
But it's famous most of all because
this
is where the great race scene in "Chariots of Fire" was filmed.
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| The West Sands, looking out onto the beach
where Chariots of Fire was filmed, and (below) looking back at
town. |
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Just Northwest of St. Andrews - In Leuchars (follow the A919)
For The Lover of Architecture and History
12th Century Norman Church --
St Athernase
"The second finest piece
of Norman work
in the whole of Breat Britain."
Built
in 1187 by a crusader, much of
the church
remains just as the stonemasons
left it over
800 years ago.
Open April to October, with guided tours
on Tuesdays, when their Coach
House Cafe
is also open.
Admission is free, but the upkeep on this
architectural treasure is sizable
and therefore
donations are always welcome.
Tel/01334 870 038
www.leucharsstathernase.org.uk
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Farther Afield -- but very do-able.
The medieval village of Falkland--the
Royal Burgh of Falkland--(near Cupar) with the grandeur of its royal
palace sitting in the heart of the village.
Royal Falkland Palace, once the country residence
of the Stewart kings and queens, where they
hunted deer and wild boar in the forests
of Fife, is well worth the half-hour or so
drive. You'll see the fine gardens with their
intriguing nooks and crannies, and the Royal
Tennis Court, reputedly the world's oldest
and always a favorite of Mary Queen of Scots.
Royal Falkland Palace, superb example of
Renaissance architecture, definitely deserves
a visit. The town itself is a gem, and one
of my favorites to stroll around in. Very
small, so you can park in the centre (near
the palace, which is right in the town centre)
and do it all on foot. Lots more about Falkland
under Ladybank Golf Club.
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Hill of Tarvit Mansion
Secluded among rolling hills but only a 15
minute drive from St. Andrews, sits this
memorable example of how the super wealthy
lived in the past. Not a museum, this is
an elegant family home. (Be sure to visit
the laundry house.) Run by the National Trust
of Scotland, the property is in beautiful
condition. Follow the A91 for 10 miles to
Cupar, then take the A916 south for a mile
or so and watch for signs on your left. Highly
recommended. More info at the Tourist Information
Centre. |
VERY SPECIAL - "The Secret Garden" of Fife
Adjacent to the spectacular Kingsbarns Golf
Club (in Kingsbarns, only a few miles
south
of St. Andrews on the A917) is Cambo Estate Gardens. You will see the signpost pointing left
just after you pass the golf course.
Let me tell you about Cambo Gardens, which
is often referred to as the East Neuk's Secret Garden. And it is. Cambo Gardens take you back
into another era, another century, to a storybook
world where all is lovely--a fairytale land
of beauty and gentle charm. Utterly tranquil,
I had the place all to myself on a foggy
May morning. How grateful I am for the dedicated
people who maintain the sacredness of this
place.
Each time we return to Fife I make a pilgrimage
to the "secret garden." Cambo Gardens are exquisite in any season--
Early Spring -- 70 acres of woodland carpeted
with snowdrops and other small flowers. Daffodils,
too.l
Later Spring (May) -- lilacs and flowering
trees
Summer -- roses cascading over the walls,
and perenniels
Autumn -- a blaze of color, berries, and
in October another magical carpeting of snowdrops.
There is a pleasant footpath from the garden to the
sea. Along the way you'll meet the two Cambo Estate
pigs, Holly and Ivy, who work hard to keep
some of the area free of weeds. (Don't worry,
they are fenced in,) Cambo Gardens gets my highest rating. I do hope you will
visit this idyllic corner of our Earth.
Tentsmuir Point
The beach at Tentsmuir Point stretches for
many miles, all of which can be walked, and
it presents itself with a sudden beauty as
you cross over the dunes. This is a place
of "landscape wizardry," as their
brochure promises--a mix of growth and loss
of coastline teeming with lovely wildflowers
and other plants, as well as eiders and other
birds. And there are grey seals, too.
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| The first glimpse of the sea once you cross
over the dunes. |
A non-touristy place, Tentsmuir attracts
the Scottish people who come to spend
the
day. I bring my lunch with me and find
it
difficult to leave this place of vast
panoramas
of sea and sand and empty space. If
you are
a nature lover, Tentsmuir is not to
be missed.
Admission into the car park is £1--the
best
bargain around. The St. Andrews Tourist Information Centre can provide you with directions and a brochure,
and you will also be able to locate
the site
on your Ordnance Survey map of the
St. Andrews
area. You'll find more info and some
good
photos at the Scotscraig page.
Lots of other worthwhile and delightful things
to see and do outside of the town of St.
Andrews but yet nearby. Especially refer
to my notes on the Crail Craighead page.
I cover other towns when Richard reviews
their golf courses, and have more suggestions
for you there.
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When You're Hungry in St. Andrews
The town of St. Andrews is rich with eateries--everywhere
you turn you'll encounter places to
eat.
From tea shops and cafes for a small
bite
to fine restaurants, there is something
for
everyone here. A few minutes spent
browsing
through the town will provide you with
many
options. I'm listing a few choices
for you,
but you'll discover many others.
Special Note - Tay River (near St. Andrews) salmon is some
of the world's best. Many of the restaurants
serve it.
Nahm-Jim - Excellent Thai food served in a beautiful
17th Century townhouse in the centre
of St.
Andrews. At #11 Crails Lane, which
you'll
find by turning right out of the Tourist
Info Centre and then turning right
again
at a tiny alley (Crails Lane) just
a few
steps away. Very nice. Very popular,
so bookings
are strongly recommended. Tel: 01334
474000
Vine Leaf Restaurant - 131 South Street. Fine food at higher end
prices.
Doll's House - 3 Church Square, next to the library. Good
food, interesting menu.
Russell Hotel - 26 The Scores, corner of Murray Park and
The Scores. Popular with golfers. Friendly
staff.
Byre Theatre - has a very nice restaurant with good wine
selection.
The Coffee House - 6A Greyfriars Gardens, off Market St.,
is filled (and I mean FILLED) with
an unimaginable
collection of items all relating to
coffees
and teas. Good coffee cafe in rear
of shop.
And a personal favorite of ours -- St. Andrews Links Clubhouse. Although they have a very good restaurant,
we prefer the Lounge, where they serve
light
meals in a very relaxing and pleasant
atmosphere.
Food is above average, prices reasonable,
and the ambience is tops--a large,
cheerful,
bright room with huge windows in almost
every
direction. You look out over the Jubilee
and New Courses with the North Sea
just beyond.
The inside can offer interesting views
as
well, because it's filled with golfers,
some
of them world-class. (Vijay Singh was
there
once when we were, for instance.)
St. Andrews Golf Courses now have a second
clubhouse, the St. Andrews Eden Clubhouse, also open to the public. An informal restaurant
offering great views over the links,
especially
from the upstairs room. They serve
light
meals all day.
And if you feel like going a few miles out
of town, we can recommend these --
We especially like the Upper Largo Hotel
& Restaurant -- The motto of this old country inn is "good
food served all day, every day,"
and
it's true. The Upper Largo serves delicious
Scottish meals (good seafood is a specialty)
with something for everyone, offering
excellent
value for your money. You can dine
in the
pub room or in the glass-enclosed conservatory
(our own favorite), but either way
the ambience
is appealing and very relaxed. Easy
to find,
the Upper Largo Hotel & Restaurant is in the tiny village of Upper Largo, right
on the main road (A915) from St. Andrews
to Largo, Leven and Lundin Links. The
restaurant
will be on your left as you round the
bend
in Upper Largo. Lots of parking. Only
about
20 minutes from St.. Andrews. But if
you're
playing Lundin or Leven golf course,
you're
only a couple of minutes from this
enjoyable
place. Telephone 01333 360236.
The Barns at Kingsbarns - This fine restaurant in a very old stone
building became a favorite of ours immediately.
Every aspect of The Barns (including the 4 fabulous B&B rooms--see
write-up under Where To Eat) has the mark of quality on it. Excellent
food in an attractive dining room,
everything
cooked to order. You'd be wise to include
The Barns on your list of places to eat. Only a few
minutes south of St. Andrews on the
A917
as it passes through the village of
Kingsbarns,
look for the inviting brownstone inn
on your
left as round the curve. Highly recommended,
The Barns is first-class all the way. Already very
popular, you'll need to call ahead
for a
booking. Phone (0)1334 460820. www.barnsatkingsbarns.com.
Heron Gallery & Bistro - Another favourite of ours. In the centre
of the picturesque fishing village
of Pittenweem
just immediately west of Anstruther.
Excellent
cooked-to-order cuisine in the enticing
environment
of a colourful art gallery. Very popular,
so be sure to book ahead of time. An
after-dinner
stroll around the tiny town is sure
to delight.
15 High Street, phone (0)1333 311014.
www.east-neuk-seafood.co.uk/details.cfm?id38
Dreel Tavern - Picturesque 16th Century inn serving good
bar lunches and evening meals. In the
heart
of Anstruther, at 16 High Street West.
Phone
01333 310727 for bookings.
Anstruther Fish Bar and Restaurant - 42 Shore Street in Anstruther, down on
the East Neuk. Worth the 25-minute
drive
if you want a basic fish and chips
place
and don't care about the atmosphere.
They
serve haddock instead of the usual
cod, and
have won numerous awards for it. If
you are
already in the Crail area, it's just
a short
hop along the coast to Anstruther.
Drumoig Golf Hotel - The view is quite lovely, the ambience pleasant,
and the meals are good. Prices are right, too. Worth the 10 minute
drive.
One of our favorite out-of-town restaurants is the Ship Inn in Elie. Down on the south coast of Fife,
it is located right on the harbour,
has great
seafood and nice ambience. Several
rooms
to choose from. We don't mind the 20-minute
drive at all. And if you happen to
be in
the Leven, Crail, Lunden Links, Elie
area
for golf anyway, the Ship Inn is nearby. (See photo on Elie page.
Special Note - The "picturebook" fishing villages
along the East Neuk southern coast offer
many nice tea rooms and small restaurants within art
galleries. Pittenweem, Crail, Anstruther and St. Monans
are all walking towns, and you will discover
delights no matter which way you turn.
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